Old Gaffers' Annual Race and Rally 2012

For something like 54 years old gaffers have gathered in the Solent for a race and rally.  This year the event started in Lymington on Friday evening, with a race to Island Harbour on the Medina on Saturday.  Toucando's crew on this occasion all happened to be based on the Isle of Wight.  They came over on the Red Jet on Friday morning and joined Toucando at Shamrock Quay for lunch before we set off.  We motor sailed most of the way (there wasn't a great deal of wind, and as usual it was from the wrong direction), although we did do a bit of sailing in the western Solent.  We were also slightly hampered by the lack of a staysail - it is being serviced by SO31, who are putting on a new UV strip.  We had a comfortable passage and crept into the Lymington River between the large ferries which ply between the mainland and Yarmouth.  We saw a lone gaffer sailing out by a minor channel as we went past the Enticott starboard post:

We got to the Dan Bran pontoon where we moored alongside Rula (Aeolus later moored outside us).  We were just in time to get ready to go ashore for our evening meal of fish pie at the Lymington Town Sailing Club.  There were a few announcements about the race, some music from a local band, and from the gaffers increasingly good shanty singers.

We were not taking part in the race, which meant we could have a leisurely start in the morning, enjoying the fine weather on the pontoon.

We were joined by John, a friend of Carole and Paul, so we had four on board when we set off.  It was a light airs morning.  We got the sails hoisted east of Lymington and had a good couple of hours sailing in the western Solent, practising tacks and gybes, and being carried ever closer to our destination by the rising tide.

Eventually the tide dropped to virtually nothing, and we were happy to drift while we had lunch enjoying the view of other gaffers trying to race.

 We dropped the sails off Gurnard and motored into the Medina.  Island Harbour has a lock, and because we wanted maximum flexibility regarding departure times we decided to moor on one of  the Folly Inn's pontoons.

John, Carole, Paul and Andrew aboard Toucando at the Folly

We caught the water taxi ashore and joined the festivities at Island Harbour... starting off with some excellent beer aboard Susan J, a 28' Falmouth Working Boat. Like Toucando her hull was built by Martin Heard of Gaffers and Luggers in Mylor, and also like Toucando the remaining work was done elsewhere.  Mike and Dan Shaw (respectively the National and Area Presidents of the Old Gaffers' Association) sailed Susan J around the UK and actually saw Toucando being built in Howth.



After the boat party we went to the Breeze Restaurant, where prizes were awarded, Miss Ningi an 18' open boat skippered by Bernard Bowes, coming first overall.  We enjoyed a chilli and were entertained by a bluesy cover band.  Eventually we caught the water taxi back to Toucando's pontoon.

On Sunday we left the Medina in very light winds and motored round to Osborne Bay where we dropped the anchor, enjoyed the view and had lunch.  Whilst we were doing so the wind gradually picked up, to a Force 4 in the bay, which meant it would be stronger out of the lee of the island.  We raised the hook and motored back home in a Force 5, gusting 6,with a couple of slight showers thrown in.  The main excitement on the way back was some high speed air sea rescue activity at close quarters (practice we presume).

We got back to the Itchen and returned to Toucando's home pontoon.  Thank you to Carole and Paul (and John on Saturday) for being an excellent crew.

Yarmouth Old Gaffers Festival 2012

For me this is one of the best events of the summer: it's an annual gathering of traditional boats at Yarmouth, a small harbour town at the west end of the Isle of Wight. Although the boats are at the centre of things it's a festival for the whole town and beyond.  There is an international street market, craft tent, vintage car rally, entertainers, dogshow, lifeboat display, etc..

Toucando was joined in Southampton by Lesley and Carole on Thursday.  After some lunch on board and familiarisation with the ropes, we set off.  The wind was variable.  It started off in the north, went round to the south, then the south east, then the south west.  The only consistent thing about it was that it tended to blow from the direction we wanted to go.  We raised the main off Dockhead in a blustery Force 4 to 5 from the south east and motor sailed down to Calshot.  Once in the Solent we were able to start beating down towards Yarmouth,  but  by this stage the wind had dropped and backed to south west and we were not making very fast progress.  The crew however got pretty efficient at tacking.  We completed the passage in very light winds arriving in Yarmouth at about 1930.

After securing Toucando we went for a barbecue and were joined by Carole's husband.  Unfortunately the lawn at the Royal Solent has been turned into a builders' compound so we were in the shed at the back of the car park.  Nevertheless it was good to meet up with the gaffers again.

Friday was shore-based... there was plenty to see.  Toucando seemed to enjoy being on one of Yarmouth's new walkashore pontoons between some Memorys including Sepia and Nipperkin.

In the evening the shore entertainment was laid on by Rob Da Bank or Radio 1 and Bestival fame. 
He does a lot of stuff on the Island and brings a new dimenstion to Friday night at Yarmouth.  Cuban Brothers were headlining, but my recommendation for top band was Skinny Lister.  This five piece sings folk songs, shanties and their own material, while passing around a couple of earthenware cider jugs.  It's about time for another folk revival, and Skinny Lister brings a new energy and enthusiasm to the genre.  Best of all they seem to attract a young following who belt out the choruses with real enthusiasm.

Saturday was the day of the race.  Since Toucando will not race until a regular crew has been found I enjoyed spectating from the end of Yarmouth Pier.  Despite the blue skies it had blown a gale overnight and was very blustery in the morning.  Most of the small boats decided to stay in harbour.  Miss Ningi bravely ventured out, had a brilliant start, but had to return when waves started flooding her.  The crowd repeatedly opined that it was "blowing old boots" and that (most of) the competitors were "going like a train".  I haven't the faintest idea who won, but it all looked good.

I decided to give the Abba, Queen and Rod Stewart tribute bands a miss on Saturday night... or at least listen to them from Toucando.

The homeward crew comprised Lesley and Michele.  The wind had dropped considerably.  We sailed quite slowly up the western Solent and Southampton Water.  It was very crowded as youy might exect for the first really warm weekend of the sailing season.  We got back to Toucando's home berth on the Itchen at about 1430.

Thanks to Carole, Lesley and Michele for crewing and miscellaneous old gaffers for the benefit of their advice.

View from the Itchen

It has been a wonderful week from a weather point of view: sunny, almost cloudless skies.  The barometer has been way up.  I have been busy with appointments ashore in Southampton, so no sailing was possible, but I have been working on Toucando's plumbing systems to make sure they do what they are supposed to.

On Friday I took the Red Jet over to Cowes for the Committee meeting of the Solent Gaffers.  There was a lot of talk about how terrible the summer had been.  Numerous events had been cancelled or curtailed as a result of high winds, not to mention people's cruising plans.  I guess we have to try to make best use of the autumn weekends.  Mike and Dan Shaw (respectively the national and local presidents of the Old Gaffers) remembered when they saw Toucando being built.  They were circumnavigating Great Britain on Susan J, their 28' Falmouth Working Boat and had called in at Howth.  David and Barry invited them up the hill to see Toucando taking shape.  They had enjoyed they stop in Howth. I am continually meeting people who had known Toucando in her former life, and all have fond memories.

I have added some pictures  to the earlier blog entry: http://toucando.blogspot.com/2011/09/windy-weekend.html ... thanks to Michele for providing them.

And as an extra treat here is a link to a Youtube clip of Falmouth Working Boats racing during Falmouth Week 2010.  Local bylaws require that oyster dredging in the Fal estuary is done under sail, hence the continuing demand for working boats.  Many of those in the clip are wooden, but they are also made with GRP hulls.  Toucando is a larger version of the working boat, and the similarity in hull shape and sail plan is clear.  Now, wouldn't it be great to get some footage of Toucando sailing like that?  All we need is someone with a video camera and a rib... and a decent summer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SA3f5RGuVf8&feature=related

A trip to Yarmouth (almost)

Michele and Ava joined Toucando for a trip to Yarmouth.  It was to coincide with the Solent Gaffers' "Centenary Chase".  We left at 1330 with two reefs in the main.  We got the sail up as soon as we were off the mooring and had a very nice sail down Southampton Water.  The barometer had been falling steadily, and Southampton appeared to be under a black cloud as we looked back, but it was fine where we were.

We turned towards Yarmouth after Calshot Spit, putting on the engine to get through the "precautionary area".  The wind picked up to a Force 7 (32 knots) from the SSW (the direction of Yarmouth).  We made slow progress.  We had a go at tacking, but our progress was not good.... another trip with a Force 7 from the wrong direction!  We considered the merits of working our way to Yarmouth, but decided to head for Cowes instead.

We got the sails furled in the Medina and found a berth at East Cowes.  We caught the bus to Yarmouth and arrived in time for dinner at the Royal Solent.  Only five boats had taken part in the Chase, and many of the participants had themselves come by land, or ferry.  The winner of the open boat class had taken a bang on the head from the boom, and had had a trip to A&E as a result.  He managed to get back in order to claim his prize.  Our decision to stop at Cowes was probably the prudent one.

On Sunday we headed back to Southampton.  It was an almost perfect day for sailing... a Force 4 from the west.  We sailed in a nice straight line across from Cowes towards Hillhead.  Then we had to make a few tacks to get into Southampton Water and past the oil terminal.  We then managed to have a long close-hauled tack most of the way up Southampton Water, during which we had lunch.  We dropped the main just off Weston Shelf and headed for the Itchen.  At that point the rain came, heavy and intense... the worst I can recall on Toucando.  Fortunately there was not much wind at that point. We huddled in our waterproofs with the hoods pulled well over, and motored up to the pontoon, where we made a perfect landing.

And so ended Toucando's last scheduled event of the season.... However there will be more weekend sailing, providing the weather is ok.  I have just heard a forecast suggesting we are going to get heavy snows in October.  I hope that is wrong.

The Great Squall

Ava and Alexander joined Toucando on Friday evening ready for a prompt start on Saturday to take part in the Old Gaffers' Annual (Race and) Rally (Toucando was not racing).  We left shortly after eight on what seemed to be a fine morning. The forecast was for winds of Force 4 or 5, with the possibility of a 6 "near headlands". We raised the mainsail with two reefs near Dockhead in very calm conditions and unfurled the staysail and jib. We proceeded to have a nice sail on a beam reach down Southampton Water.

We had hoped to see the other Gaffers somewhere off Cowes, but we couldn't.  The wind, however, was much fresher when we got out into the Solent proper.  We headed in the general direction of Ryde, and started picking out the occasional gaff rigged vessel.

By now the wind was more or less behind us, so we went on a training run, executing a number of excellent controlled gybes.  By now we were close to a good part of the fleet.  We looked over our shoulder and saw some dark grey clouds.  Each of us went below and put on our waterproofs as a precaution.  Then in the space of about half a minute, just off Gilkicker Point, the wind rose from Force 5 to the top end of Force 7 and the rain was lashing down.  We turned north to be well clear of gybe point, and were grateful for the two reefs as Toucando heeled in the squall.  As we were not racing we had no inhibitions about turning on the engine and getting the main down.  We then turned back on course and completed our passage to Gosport quite comfortably, under the staysail alone.

We had a good berth at the end of a pontoon in the Royal Clarence Marina, near Morwenna (Heard 28) and Brilleau.  We enjoyed a stroll around Gosport, which was rather dominated by the festival music throbbing in the park.  Then we called into the bar where the results of the race were announced.  All the talk was of the squall.  Fortunately no damage was done, but many boats had had an  exciting few minutes.  Mark Woodhouse's Foxhound was the overall winner.

Sunday was a day of doing very little, except sitting on the boat and reading.  Toucando had a few admiring visitors, many of whom recognised her lines as a Heard.  In the evening we joined in the barbecue on the dockside, and listened to shanties provided by Terry (amongst others).  Amazingly they muffled the sound of the Gosport Festival quite effectively.

On Sunday Three Brothers rafted up beside us... she is an amazing traditional fishing boat, with very little in the way of modernisation.

We set off about 1100 to catch the west flowing tide.  We raised the main in the harbour and unfurled thejib and staysail in the Swashway.  We tacked up the eastern Solent to Warsash, by which time the wind was definitely from the northwest, and the tide falling: not a good combination for getting up Southampton Water efficiently, so we completed the passage under engine and made a perfect landing on Toucando's pontoon.

Thanks to Alexander and Ava for being a very efficient crew... and the Solent Gaffers for a great event.

Marchwood

Marchwood is really only just round the corner.  You go down the Itchen, turn right into the Test, through the docks, and there it is just by the waste incinerator, opposite the container port.  The forecast was not particularly good - south westerly five to seven, with rain/squally showers.  My crew - Jocelyn and Felicity - turned up at 1000 and we had a bumpy tender ride out to Toucando's pontoon.  After some boat familiarisation and briefing, and the issue of trawler specification wet weather gear, we got ready to spring Toucando off.  The manouevre worked perfectly.  A visitor on the pontoon stoodby to help, but wasn't really needed.

I had run the engine for half an hour previously without a problem.  We motored down the Itchen.  Felicity and Jocelyn quickly mastered the art of lowering and raising the bowsprit, belaying and coiling ropes, as well as steering the boat.  A passing yacht commented that there seemed to be "smoke" coming from the exhaust... anyhow, we raised a sail and reached up the Test.  We had the pleasure of seeing ten gaffers sailing towards us as they set off on the race.  Behind us Cap Stephens approached: a huge container ship with three tugs.  We got out of her way.  The race continued down Southampton Water before returning.  Cap Stephens did a 180 degree turn right on the finishing line.  The racers were seriously impeded.  We found our berth on the Marchwood Yacht Club pontoon, making a perfect arrival.  It turned out that as a result of the container ship and other large vessels only three of the racers actually crossed the line, and one of those had to retire following a "protest" from the harbourmaster.  Before long a good number of gaffers were berthed.  We had lunch.
Jocelyn and Felicity (both orienteering experts) cleverly managed to find their way to the Pilgrim Inn for an early evening drink, while the skipper had a rest before doing dinner.  After our curry, we sat in the clubhouse with the other gaffers to the background of some shanties and folk songs.  A variety of opinions were offered on Toucando's engine: the consensus was that occasional flotsam such as seaweed was reducing the intake of cooling water, and that the "smoke" coming from the exhaust was in fact steam (or water vapour to be more accurate).

The view from Toucando when we got back from the clubhouse: a fine prospect of the container port

In the morning we had a leisurely breakfast.  Anything up to a force 8 was forecast, and quite a lot of the gaffers had decided to make an early getaway.  We left at a respectable time and went down to Southampton Water where we sailed about with the main and staysail, tacking and gybing, and trying various points of sail.  The wind varied between a Force 3 and 6, and there were several sharp showers, keeping us on our toes as we coped with the rapidly changing conditions.  Our old friend Cap Stephens headed back out to sea, and a few car transporters moved about, as well as the usual ferries and large number sof yachts, dinghies, and motor boats.   When required the engine was fine, which may or may not prove the theory.  We got back to Toucando's berth in time for a late lunch.
Thanks to Jocelyn and Felicity for all their help and their quick mastery of the principal halyards, purchases, sheets and stays required to control Toucando.

Yarmouth Old Gaffers' Festival 2011

Toucando set off for Yarmouth on Thursday 2nd June, with crew comprising Lesley, David and Andrew (skipper).  First job was to top up with diesel at Itchen Towage.

We had a bit of a sail down Southampton Water, but a light westerly was not helpful when it came to the Solent, so we motored the rest of the way.  Toucando wore a good selection of flags, like the other gaffers.

She was much admired.  Several people remembered seeing her at Brest in Brittany with her previous owners.
On Friday we enjoyed the shore entertainments, including Rob da Bank of Radio 1 (who lives nearby) and a range of musicians.

Saturday was an opportunity to go sailing.  Toucando did not join the race, but instead went out and practised tacking, gybing and different sail settings, with a crew comprising Andrew, Anne, Lesley and Paul.

Tall ship under the boom

Paul, Anne, Andrew and Lesley... back in Yarmouth

Saturday night was very windy... blowing from the northeast straight into the harbour.  Even Toucando at 11 tons was bouncing about, and the mooring lines were creaking and groaning.  At 0130 the lifeboat went out on a call.  As we were moored just 10 metres away we couldn't help peer out through the portholes as it went off on its mission: it would not have been a nice night at sea.

On Sunday we returned to Southampton (Andrew, Lesley, Paul and Vee).  We had a little excitement when the engine started smoking just outside Yarmouth.  After a few moments thought we checked the cooling water strainer and removed a large clump of seaweed.  As is so often the case the wind was blowing the wrong way, so it was more of a motor than a sail.  Toucando arrived back on her berth in the Itchen in the late afternoon having enjoyed the festival and welcomed five new crew members over the weekend.