Other perspectives

There are a number of blogs and websites focusing on Round Britain Challenge... principal amongst them is oga50.org, which includes links to several sites. East coast yawl Bonita has a blog, as does Robinetta. Sailing by is a much more ambitious project linking information about Round Britain Challenge with stories about historic sailing boats and the like. More links will be shared in a future post.


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Location:Harbour Road,Howth,Ireland

Toucando returns

You might want some more details about Toucando's passage from Holyhead to Howth. It was a pleasant day, after more gales over the weekend, things had settled down. We got up at six and left the pontoon just after seven. We did a couple of circles in the harbour to "swing" the compass which had been misreading a little, then we got the mainsail up. It was about low tide when we set off. The tide sucked us north west out of the harbour. We maintained a heading of due west on the basis that the tide would take us first to the north, then back south in the approximate 12 hours it would take to cross the Irish Sea. The forecast was for variable winds of force three or four, rising to five or six at an u specified time. We unfurled the jib and staysail and were sailing at last.


The wind was certainly variable, often insufficient to sail at a reasonable speed, so the engine was required some of the time.
The weather was good and we sailed in company with Annabel J much of the time.


Everything went to plan. Colin rustled up some dinner which we enjoyed before taking down the sails ready to enter the harbour at Howth.


I washed mine down with ginger beer.
We made the most of the rest of the sail as we approached the Irish coast, the islands of Lambay and Ireland's Eye and the Brn of Howth.


It was good to see the Howth 17s racing: they are a 100 year old class of small gaffers. We arranged our berth either the authorities. Unfortunately the place we were allocated turned out to be occupied by some triangular sailed riff raff, so we asked for an alternative. It was low tide and there was not a lot of navigable water. Due to a misunderstanding of the whereabouts of pontoon N we navigated round the back of the marina, which was pretty difficult but not as difficult as reversing out. However Toucando did it without getting stuck.
She was warmly greeted by old friends shouting, "welcome back Toucando". It transpired that we were supposed to go between two pontoons without a lot of room to spare. It challenged the sideways sailing ability of the skipper to its limits, but eventually we were in our place: a prime position.


We enjoyed some Guinness in the bar, meeting up with other members of the gaffer fleet, before returning to Toucando for a late night sandwich.
I went for a walk round the peninsula and did some grocery shopping. Toucando had a stream of visitors. Barry, one of Toucando's builders, called by with Elizabeth: an assiduous reader of this blog. It was good to see them and to talk about Toucando's early history.


Here they are, Barry suitably equipped with a drill.
As it is National Fish and Chips Day our plans for the evening are made.


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Location:Harbour Road,,Ireland

We've arrived in Howth

We had a very gentle crossing of the Irish Sea... Some sailing, quite a lot of motoring. Now we're in Howth Marina after a challenging entry at low water, with little room to manoeuvre. I believe the bar may sell Guinness so I'll leave it at that for now.




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Location:Dublin,Ireland

Time and tide

After a week of near gales in Milford Haven we decided to move on. We left the docks at 0445 when the lock began free flow operation. High Barbaree and Witch left at much the same time.
It was a pleasant, quiet morning as we raised the sails and motored out of the waterway past the oil terminal. We followed the coast round, going between Skokholm and Grasholm. There wasn't enough wind to sail, but we attained ten knots with the help of some very fast tides. The sea was churned up and fairly random: it was a bumpy ride, but not too bad as we went by Skomer and St David's Head in company with the two aforementioned boats which were ahead of us picking their way through.




The crew took turns on watch as we crossed Cardigan Bay. Annoyingly the log (speedometer) wasn't working and the wind indicator was playing up. At least we had our speed over the ground from GPS. We were going fast until lunchtime. Eventually we overtook Witch and High Barbaree.




A short experiment demonstrated that there was no point in trying to sail without assistance from the engine.




We chatted as we progressed over a very calm Cardigan Bay.




Eventually it was sundown as we passed Bardsey Island and the Lleyn Peninsula.




Soon after it was moon rise. We got more help from the tide as we crossed Carnafon Bay towards Holyhead. It seemed like we had got the best of the tides at the start and end of the trip.
We rounded Holy Island in darkness at midnight, slowing to keep well clear of two inbound Dublin ferries. We hadn't really noticed the tide building against us. We could see Witch's lights a mile or so behind, but no sign of High Barbaree. We contacted Sue of the North Wales gaffers to advise our arrival time, but we were now making slow progress. The green light on the harbour wall seemed to remain resolutely distant, but we were getting there. Sue phoned to say the bar was going to stay open until 0200. Amazingly, and annoyingly, the log sprang back to life at the last minute. Eventually we turned the corner, got in the harbour, lowered the sails, raised the bowsprit, and picked our way through the moorings to the Holyhead Sailing Club pontoon, guided by swinging lanterns being displayed for our benefit. There were several N Wales gaffers waiting for us who helped us to moor. It was 0200. Witch had come in just after us, but there was no sign of High Barbaree. "They'll never get in against this tide," said a lugubrious voice pessimistically.
"The bar's still open," said Sue. Despite having had a 22 hour day we thought we'd go. We had a pint or two with the crew of Witch and the local gaffers.




I was wondering what would happen about High Barbaree when the radio behind the bar sprang into life. "Holyhead Marina, Holyhead Marina, this is High Barbaree, High Barbaree, we are just entering the harbour." They had arrived. The gaffer fleet was assembled in Holyhead.

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Location:Holyhead,

Academic Interlude

I had known for quite a long time that I would have to do an exam this week. I am in the final stages of an MSc in Demography (people counting) at the University of Southampton. The days of confinement to port in Plymouth had the benefit of enabling some revision, and I was able to continue this at Milford Haven.
Because quite a lot of official statisticians do the demography course the exam is also run at the ONS HQ in Newport. As this is considerably nearer to Milford Gaven than Southampton is, it seemed like a good option. I caught the train on Sunday. What an enormous country Wales is: it took almost four hours. But it was a very pleasant ride, by forest and coast. Exam over I am now on my way back to Toucando, and can give my full attention to the voyage.









(They spelled my name wrong... potentially confusing me with a more famous demographer.)



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Location:Station Approach,Llantrisant,United Kingdom

Blessed Milford

We left Falmouth at 0840 yesterday (Thursday 16th May) and had a pleasant motor sail along the Cornish south coast. We rounded Land's End and Cape Cornwall and set off for a night crossing of the Bristol Channel. It was calm, clear and cold. We saw Lundy in the early hours. Petrels, puffins and dolphins after sunrise. The morning was pleasant, but there was a wintry squall as we entered the harbour - rain, hail, thunder and lightning. All very dramatic. I was reminded of Shakespeare's "blessed Milford" in Cymbeline... And it's mention in Richard III: it's where Henry Tudor landed. I'm here for a few days.



Land's End



Sunrise in the Bristol Channel.



The crew enduring the squall.


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Location:Point Street,Milford Haven,United Kingdom

Falmouth awaiting orders

We had a successful day sailing and motor sailing from Plymouth to Falmouth. We enjoyed fish and chips at Harbour Lights then pints of Sharp's Juniperus and Special at the Chain Locker. It's been good to get away from Plymouth after a week confined to port.


Tomorrow we head for Milford Haven.

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Location:Trefusis Road,Flushing,United Kingdom

More of the same

We got ready to go to sea. But with a steady Force 6, gusting 7 in the marina, it was not easy to get off the pontoon, and looked as though it would be challenging for the new crew at sea. A better weather window is expected later in the week.


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Location:Richmond Walk,Plymouth,United Kingdom

New crew: we're hoping to be outward bound tomorrow

New crew members Lee (from Southampton) and Jolyan from Cornwall arrived this afternoon. Roger, who was on leg remained on board. If conditions are suitable we'll head for Falmouth tomorrow. Meanwhile we have enjoyed meat and vegetarian penne Bolognese, washed down with ginger beer.



Roger, Lee and Jolyan.


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Location:Richmond Walk,Plymouth,United Kingdom

Still here

Just at present the wind has dropped, but it will come back later. Saturday was a day of victualling for the next leg, and a little more revision. New crew member Lee arrives this afternoon. I hope the weather will allow us to make some progress tomorrow. Much as I like Plymouth, we have been here too long. It would be good to be sailing again.



Thanks to Carole for this picture of me at the helm coming across Lyme Bay.


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Location:Richmond Walk,Plymouth,United Kingdom

An enforced break

We had winds of 40 knots in the Mayflower Marina yesterday: that is on the border of Gale Force 8 and Severe Gale Force 9. None of the gaffer fleet left the harbour and the parade of sail round the harbour was sensibly postponed.

I took a walk around to Royal William Victualling Yard... An impressive complex of buildings that used to supply the fleet in times gone by. Now it is flats and restaurants.






There was a nice view of Toucando across the water. Rather impressively our triangular burgee remained flying at the top of the mast despite the howling winds.



I then went into the city centre and had a look at the Barbican area, enjoying a crab sandwich at the Strand Cafe, before returning to Toucando to do some revision.

We had a French style lamb ragout/cassoulet aboard before going to Jolly Jacks.

It happens to be the 50th anniversary of the twinning of Plymouth and Brest, so there were a lot of Breton/French in town, some of whom had been persuaded to come over to entertain us. A band of trilby wearing female accordionists were joined by some bagpipers for an evening of impromptu and very merry music making. Local Plymouth musicians joined in as well as the gaffers: notably Ben Collins who has done a lot to promote shanty singing in the Solent Area in recent years. We stayed until after closing time.









Today (Friday) has been one of more revision for me. Crew members Hugh and Carole have returned to their respective homes. Roger and I remain. Lee arrives on Sunday and thereafter we hope to be sailing again.

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Location:Richmond Walk,Plymouth,United Kingdom

Stormbound in Plymouth

On Wednesday we got up late, had breakfast and tidied the boat. The crew explored Plymouth and I did some revision. In the evening we enjoyed fish and chips with the gaffers at Jolly Jacks entertained by the Tavy Tars. It remained windy all day, with waves lapping over the breakwater pontoon. There are 30+ gaff rigged boats here. The parade of sail in the harbour scheduled for today (Thursday) has been postponed as gales are expected to blow through. It looks as though our crew change may happen here rather than Falmouth.



Annabel J on the breakwater pontoon.



The Tavy Tars singing shanties.

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Location:United Kingdom

Brief update: we arrived in Plymouth

It was a very long day which will warrant a very long blog... But for now all I can say is we had a very nice sail across Lyme Bay and quite a challenging landfall at Plymouth. Here's a picture of the nice bit.



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Location:Richmond Walk,Plymouth,United Kingdom

We're in Weymouth

My crew for leg one comprised Carole, Hugh and Roger, all of whom have sailed on Toucando before. We left Southampton on Saturday and met the gaffer fleet in Hamble. This was the beginning of Round Britain Challenge for us. There was a supper at the RAFYC followed by entertainment from George Becket and the Blunt Instruments.
We set off for Yarmouth under power arriving for a late lunch. There were some jobs to do, like putting on sheets and reefing lines, the spars and sails only having been put back on Thursday.
We enjoyed a chicken tagine on board Toucando.
On Monday morning we had planned to set off at 0800 to get to Weymouth early, but it was very foggy.



We delayed until 1000 when it had cleared a little. Thee was not much wind. We motored down the Needles Channel and practised our radar skills. It managed to be foggy and sunny at the same time. Most of the way we saw nothing, but eventually Portland loomed above the fog bank. We came into Weymouth at 1700 where it was warm and bright. It's one of my favourite ports.


We are about to start cooking and enjoy our evening. The voyage has begun... All we need now is enough wind to sail and enough visibility to see where we are going.

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Location:Custom House Quay,Weymouth,United Kingdom

Just in time

Thursday 2nd May was exceptionally busy. Following the disaster with the broken down truck Jeremy Freeland of Collars delivered the new bowsprit and repaired boom on top of his car before 0800. We carried them down to the pontoon. They looked very good.




I went aboard to do some essential admin. I heard the tramp of feet on the deck. I popped my head out. "It's Andy from Greenham Regis." The electricians had arrived. The wind indicator had not worked since the mast had been re-stepped. John, the regular electrician was going up to sort it out. There was only a fairly thin (but strong) cruising chute halyard, and an even thinner (but strong) topsail halyard going to the very top of the mast. "Are the shackles up there ok?" John asked. "They looked ok to me," I said, "But I'm not an expert." John peered at the top of the mast with binoculars. He looked a bit grim. He suddenly said, "Ok, we'll do it." He got his climbing harness out and attached two lines to it. Andy and I started hauling him up. 48 feet is quite a long way, but we got him up to working height. I tended the ropes, while Andy looked at the display panels.




Yes, that is an electrician up there.
John discovered the wind vane had not been properly reattached. However even when it was, it only showed wind direction, not speed. We sent up a new unit on a flag halyard. It worked! A little adjustment was required to the display readout. And then the job was done. We carefully lowered John to the deck. "Your shackles are alright," he observed. I was very grateful for his help in getting the problem sorted and ascending an unknown wooden mast on a breezy day.
Just as the electricians left the riggers arrived and we got straight into installing the bowsprit and boom. There is a lot of rope and wire on a gaffer, and we got confused more than once, but with the professional skills of the riggers and my knowledge of the individual peculiarities of Toucando's rig we got everything back on, including the mainsail in about three hours.




By this time it was mid afternoon, but exactly a month after her mast was unstepped Toucando was once again a fully functional sailing vessel - with less than 48 hours to the start of the circumnavigation.
There are still a few cosmetic jobs to be done but the important functional tasks are complete. Thanks to Ebbtide Marine Engineering, Greenham Regis Electronics, Collars Spars, Spencer Rigging, Force 4 Chandlery and helpful crew and friends: Colin, Jem, Kevin and Roger.
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