We felt we could stay in Tobermory much longer... There were so many things to see on Mull, but we only had time to visit the excellent local museum, set up and run by volunteers. It had a great display about the island's geology, maritime and social history... lots of artefacts and helpful explanation. Then it was lunch and a fairly late afternoon sail down the Sound of Mull to Loch Aline (pronounced Loch Alan).
We had agreed to eat out... The first time since Dublin (except for gaffer parties).
We had passed Loch Aline on our way from Oban: it's a glacial tributary to the Sound of Mull on the mainland side. There is a narrow and fairly shallow entrance which then opens out and deepens into a well protected loch and harbour. We didn't know much about it, and had three surprises.
The first was to find a brand new marina with EU funded pontoons, and marble clad shower facilities. Pontoon Peter came and collected our dues. The marina, which was operated by the community, had opened in May and was intended to be part of a series linking Ireland and Scotland.
Some fellow yachtsmen advised us about the locality... apparently the shore-based dining comprised the miners' club or the White House restaurant.
The second surprise was the mine. It produces white silica sand... Excellent for the production of optical glass. It's existence helps explain the white beaches.
We saw the miners' club, considered it an option, but thought we'd complete our reconnaissance by checking out the White House.
This was the third surprise: a simple white house by the village store - we were impressed to see Michelin stickers in the windows. We went in: it was 2035. "Can we have a table for three?" "We close at eight thirty..." Our hearts sank, "I'll just check." An anxious ten seconds elapsed. The maitresse d' returned: "That'll be fine."
We took our places and studied the menu on a large chalk board. After debating for a couple of seconds we decided to have starters: local charcuterie. For main course I thought it appropriate to the location and my need for vitamin B12 to have stag liver and kidney; Anne had pork chops and Pete had sea bass with scallops and mussels. We were all impressed. We enjoyed a couple of nice bottles of Gewurtztraminer which went well with all our choices. For dessert we had whisky baba, creme brûlée and raspberries. We complimented the chef in person.
We later learned that The White House had won the Highlands and Islands restaurant of the year competition and was up for more awards success this year. The staff were very welcoming and the prices good, particularly for a restaurant of its quality. Check it out on line, and visit if you are anywhere nearby.
We returned to Toucando: it was still light at 2300.
We got up early on Thursday. For no good reason we sailed off the pontoon, not particularly elegantly. To begin with it was quite windy, but that didn't last long. Most of the day we were motoring in misty, slightly murky conditions.
We got through the Corran Narrows without incident: our planning had paid off. We passed Fort William then hovered outside Corpach sea lock. We learned the required technique for tending the lines. Before Toucando left the lock I went ashore to obtain our licence for the canal. We then passed through a couple more locks before entering Neptune's Staircase... A sequence of eight locks. There we quite a lot of spectators, some of whom we got to know quite well as we chatted as we slowly ascended. Once at the top we moored in the shadow of Ben Nevis. We enjoyed poached salmon with vegetables, before retiring for a well earned rest.
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Location:Neptune's Staircase, Caledonian Canal, Nr Fort William
