It was pretty misty. We had a little difficulty with the bowsprit, but eventually it was sorted. The wind was coming dead astern and Toucando rolled a lot in the beamy waves. Crockery rattled, and any loose objects flew around the cabin. We motor sailed with the staysail and went fast, with the help of some very strong tides. However it was not a pleasant motion and became quite tiresome. Visibility was poor, so we couldn't see the Mull of Kintyre, Rathlin Island, or indeed anything but a mile of sea all round.
After briefly considering a reroute to Campbeltown, which we rejected because of adverse tides, we continued towards Port Ellen, trusting to our electronic navigator. At last we spied land through the fog and picked our way in past the lighthouse and skerries, to the pier and small marina. It was exactly as the chart plotter told us. We moored up and Simon cooked a bolognese. After our arrival the fog became even thicker before parting to give us a clear view out of the harbour. It had been a tiring and frustrating day, without the compensation of the views we might have expected.
Today (Wednesday) we decided to stay on at Port Ellen, sort out the boat, do some laundry, shop for groceries then go sightseeing. The principal sights to see on Islay are distilleries. Anne and I set off to Lagavulin. The walk took us along a stunning rocky coast, past peat bogs and stands of trees. There was a profusion of wild flowers, and occasional fields of sheep. We reached Lagavulin and booked our tour. In the event it was just the two of us and we were taken round by an enthusiastic young guide. All the processes were explained and we finished by sampling some of the produce. We then walked back to Toucando and had a (Scottish) beef curry. It had been a very pleasant day of rest and recuperation.
On arrival at Port Ellen:
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