Toucando: Eastern Scotland: Stonehaven to Arbroath

Saturday, 29 June 2013

Eastern Scotland: Stonehaven to Arbroath

The forecast was for south westerlies and rain. Just what we didn't want. The forecast was right. We took turns to helm Toucando well protected by our oilskins. The off watch crew stayed below, occasionally passing out tea and sandwiches to the unfortunate helmsman. Progress was slow, but steady. Gradually we crept down the coast, and as we did so the weather improved.
The approach to Arbroath was a little challenging: "I've had to avoid 48 lobster pots," commented John. They were everywhere. Fortunately we missed them all. We piloted our way successfully into the harbour, raised the bowsprit and berthed up against a friendly large blue Bermudan yacht (doing its own circumnavigation).
We paid our dues to the harbourmaster, chatting about the harbour, sailing and fishing. He pointed out a new fishing boat, the first to be launched in Arbroath for 20 years. There was a large party going on aboard.... The seagulls seemed to be joining in enthusiastically, in anticipation of more scraps to eat.
We ate in "The Old Boatyard" - a fish restaurant in quite a new building on the harbour front. It had been done out boathouse style with old timber reclaimed from a mill in Halifax. The staff were friendly and helpful. My starter was none other than an Arbroath Smoky: a smoked haddock. It was very good. I followed this with a paella, complete with lobster, mussels, prawns etc.. Anne had risotto and John had Declaration Fish Pie. We asked why "Declaration". The waitress obligingly asked chef. It was named after the Arbroath Declaration of 1320 when various nobles petitioned the Pope for Scotland to be recognised as independent of Norman ruled England. We all agreed on Clanachan for dessert: a sundae of homemade ice cream, raspberries, oatmeal and a hint of whisky. Austrian white, a complimentary, Marsala and coffee. We chatted with the proprietor. We have eaten out three times in Scotland and have been impressed on each occasion: we recommend the D Boatyard to anyone in the fleet behind us considering a stop in Arbroath.